IZMIR
IZMIR
Nestled between the mountains and the Aegean Sea to the west, Izmir is Turkey's third largest city and bears witness to thousands of years of turbulent history - in the form of war, fire and earthquake. Izmir was ruled by an Amazonian queen, transferred and restored after a dream of Alexander the Great, and later raided, by the Romans, Arabs, Selcuk Turks, Byzantines, Ottomans and modern Greeks before being recovered by the Turks, who expelled the Greek army in a bloody battle that left the city in the ashes.
Little on the historical route of ancient Smyrna (original name of Izmir) is visible. Today Izmir is one of the most populated cities in Turkey (3.7 million) and most modern, with the second largest port after Istanbul. The ships, cranes and skyscraper heights that populate the harbour are a bizarre sight and, predictably, most cruise travellers exclude the city.
Like Kusadasi in the south, the main virtue of Izmir is its proximity to Ephesus, an incredibly well-preserved Roman city. Similarly, the ruins of Pergamum and Asclepion, an ancient Greek centre of culture and health, are easily accessible and include excursion options on all ships overlooking Izmir.
The city itself is not without merit, and passengers who want to explore the urban landscape in the relatively short time available will have options like: The known Konak Square, with its emblematic Ottoman Clock Tower, is Izmir's main gathering point for young Turks. The square leads into a long and winding bazaar, a common site throughout Turkey (if you want to buy something, get ready to bargain). The baysides that flanks the line Birinci Kordon, a long main avenue that runs parallel to the waterfront, offer the opportunity to relax, sip wine, enjoy appetizers (mezes) of local seafood and watch people stroll. The Agora, a huge 2,000-year-old market where Roman farmers and traders once sold cotton, olive oil and fruit, is one of the few places that has been spared from urbanization and is a fascinating place.
